Nested Shells crochet hat pattern

** Update: I made post on errata with photos of how to crochet row 7 -- please see the most recent post on my blog. Errata as of 2/10/2012 -- old row 12 deleted (extra row), row 7 altered, turning chain replaced with "beginning ch" (do not turn project -- work in the round).

I created this hat pattern last spring and recently posted it on my blog. Please enjoy it now and comment with any questions or difficulties. 

Nested Shells Hat

Difficulty: Intermediate

Stitches: ch, sc, dc, slip stitch, fpdc

Special Stitches: Shell: 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc

Hook: 5.5mm or 6mm

Use a worsted weight yarn, on the heavier side. (Light worsted will give you a tiny hat). I used Paton’s classic wool (1 skein 210yd/ 192m)

Pattern Instructions:

Row 1: ch 3, join into a circle by making a slip stitch into the first ch.

Row 2: ch 2, 11 dc into ring, join in top of 1^st dc (not the top of ch 2) (10 stitches)

Row 3: ch 2, dc in same stitch as ch 2, 2 dc in each stitch around, join with slip stitch in top of first dc of the round (21 stitches)

Row 4: ch 2, dc in same stitch, 2 dc in each stitch, join with a slip stitch in 1^st dc of round (42 stitches)

Row 5: ch 1, sc in back loop of same stitch as ch 1, *sc in the back loop of next two dc, 2 sc in the back loop of the next dc* repeat from * to * through the rest of the round (55 stitches)

Row 6: ch 1, sc in the back loop of the same stitch as ch 1, sc in the back loop in each stitch around. Join with slip stitch in top of first sc. (55 st)

Row 7: ch 3, *skip 3 sc, shell into next sc, ch 1, skip 3 sc, dc into next sc, 2 dc into next sc, dc into next sc, ch 1* Repeat from * to * 3 times, skip 3 sc, shell into next sc, skip 3 sc, 1 dc into next 4 dc, join with a slip stitch into the second ch of the 3 ch made at the beginning of each round. See separate post for row 7

row 8: *ch 1, shell into ch space of first shell from last round, ch 1, fpdc around next dc, dc in next dc, 3 dc in next dc, dc in next dc, fpdc around last dc* Repeat from * to * around, ending with a fpdc on last dc of last round. Do not join, but continue to the next round. Work rows 9 through 19 without joining.

row 9: *ch 1, shell into ch space of first shell from last round, ch 1, front post double crochet around next fpdc, dc in next 2 dc, 3 dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, front post double crochet around next dc* Repeat from * to * around, ending with a fpdc on last fpdc of last round.

row 10: *ch 1, shell into ch space of first shell from last round, ch 1, front post double crochet around next fpdc, dc in next 3 dc, 3 dc in next dc, dc in next 3 dc, front post double crochet around next fpdc* Repeat from * to * around, ending with a fpdc on last dc of last round.

row 11: *ch 1, shell into ch space of first shell from last round, ch 1, front post double crochet around next fpdc, dc in next 4 dc, 3 dc in next dc, dc in next 4 dc, front post double crochet around next fpdc* Repeat from * to * around, ending with a fpdc on last dc of last round.

rows 12 – 16: (five straight rounds): *ch 1, shell into ch space of first shell from last round, ch 1, front post double crochet around next dc, dc in next 11 dc, front post double crochet around next dc* Repeat from * to * around, ending with a fpdc on last dc of last round.

Row 17: (begin decrease): *ch1, shell into ch space of next shell, ch1, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next 4 dc, dc decrease over the next 3 stitches, dc in next 4 dc, fpdc around next fpdc.* Repeat from * to * through the end of the round.

Row 18: *Shell into ch space of next shell (do not ch 1), fpdc around next fpdc, dc in next dc, dc decrease over 2 stitches, dc in next 3 dc, dc decrease over next 2 stitches, dc in next dc, fpdc around next fpdc.* Repeat from * to * through the end of the round.

Row 19: ch1, 1 sc in same stitch, *skip first dc of shell, sc in second dc of shell, skip next dc of shell, 2 sc in ch space of shell, skip next dc of shell, sc in next dc of shell, skip next dc of shell, sc in next fpdc. Sc in every dc until next fpdc, sc in next fpdc.* Repeat from * to * through the end of the round. Join with a slip stitch in ch1 from the beginning of the round.

Row 20: ch 1, sc in the back loops of each sc of the round. Join with a slip stitch in the ch1 of the beginning of the round.

Row 21: ch 2, 1 dc in the back loops of each sc of the previous round. Join with a slip stitch in the first dc of the round.

Row 22: ch1, 1 sc in the back loops of each sc of the previous round. Join with a slip stitch in the beginning ch1.

Size Medium/Large. Add one increase row, then make one less even (no increase or decrease) row. Decrease the same amount/method you would as in the small, but space the decreases so they come out evenly (more specific instructions on this to come).

Kristin's "A Little Zig, a Little Zag"

This week I'm working on another project from "More Crocheted Socks: 16 All-New Designs" by Janet Rehfeldt and Mary Jane Wood.

So far I absolutely love this book. Picked it up from KnitPicks during one of their 40% percent off sales, and it as been a wonderful investment!

The first socks I crocheted from the book were "Victorian Day Dream" in a sparkly light colored wool blend. They turned out really well and I wear them all the time. I've also crocheted "Cotton Candy Confection" which I admit is even more ridiculously girly than the previous pair. So I decided my next project ought to be something a little less frilly, pink and feminine.

One of the awesome things about living in Uptown is the wide variety of well-stocked thrift stores. I was visiting one of my favorites when I discovered this yarn, which demanded to become "A Little Zig, a Little Zag"

I have no clue how old this yarn is, but the paper is yellowed and the label looks a bit dated. Probably has been sitting in someone's stash for years. Thank you kind knit- or crocheter out there for donating this yarn, which I bought for a whopping 50 cents.


"A Little Zig, a Little Zag" has an intermediate skill level, but if you can comfortably crochet around the front and back post, as well as crochet in the back loops, you'll be set for this pattern. The pattern is really well written, and I haven't had many head scratching moments, or frustration at having to frog half the sock because of awkwardly worded instructions.

I'm almost done the first sock. I know you should crochet both socks at the same time so that they end up with approximately the same tension, but I am kind of lazy in this respect.

The zig zags aren't as pronounced as they are in the book's photos, because I've used a different yarn. It's a bit darker, with fewer color changes, so it doesn't show off the stripes as well. However, I love the texture of the socks. They feel awesome, and you can see the zig zags better in a close-up.


The pattern is pretty clear, so I can't think of any pointers off the top of my head. The yarn I bought (2 skeins) is just about enough for each sock. I'm excited to finish the project -- I just have the toe left before starting the second sock. Will update the post when I'm done! (01.09.2012)

First Post

Hello!

I'm Kristin.

I love to experiment with different yarns, but I seem to frog everything several times until I get my projects just right. Thus, I've named this blog the Finicky Fiber.

Please try out the patterns I post and leave me feedback so I can improve my work. I look forward to hearing from you!