Purpley Nested Shells, did I really frog this hat?

Do you ever crochet something, take a bunch of photos, then decide you don't like your project and frog it? Apparently I do. I was going through my digital camera, freeing up some space for a new post when I found these old pics.



The yarn I used was light worsted, even though it was labeled 4. I seem to run into yarn weight problems a lot, because I shop at fancy yarn stores that only discuss weights in terms of knitting stitches per inch. I'm a crocheter! I say, and the store clerks look at me with confusion.


Also, the hat was too small! If you'd like to see what the actual well-fitting hat looks like, check out my earlier blog post. It contains the pattern for free.


PS it's really hard to photograph yourself as a hat model.

Beaded Twist

Beaded twist involves twisting a triple crochet in front of two other triple crochets. I added beads to give it some sparkle.

Once you get the hang of it, the bracelet works up quickly. It only requires a small bit of yarn, so is great for plundering your stash. You could theoretically substitute sock yarn for the chunkier version, but I haven't tried it yet so I make no promises as to how that would turn out.

Please let me know if you find any errors and I'll make a note of it. I did my best to thoroughly explain the beading-twisting technique, but please let me know if anything is unclear.



Difficulty Level
Intermediate -- You'll need to be comfortable with chain (Ch), single crochet (Sc) and triple crochet (Tr). In fact you should be proficient with triple crochet, because the beaded-twist involves both twisting and beading in one triple crochet.

Yarn
Small amount of size 10 crochet thread. (Use size 3 crochet thread for an anklet/chunkier version.)

Hook
Size 1.8 mm needle, or size needed to obtain gauge. I believe I used a 3.5 size hook for the anklet/ size 3 crochet thread/ slightly larger version of the bracelet.

Gauge
Gauge is basically - is the length of the bracelet enough to go around your wrist? Thread will stretch a little bit to go over your hand, but you don't want to cut off your circulation.

The pattern works up in multiples of 5 plus 1. I have a small wrist and ch 46 to start. You may want to to begin with a ch 51 (or 56) for a medium to large size wrist. Using a 46 base chain will give you nine beaded-twist clusters.

Beads
Check that your thread will actually slide through the beads. You may want to thread a needle and use it to pick up the beads, though I usually do it without a needle. You'll need 18 beads for a Ch46 bracelet. Add 2 beads every time you add 5-ch, (subtract 2 beads every time you subtract 5-ch)

Alternately, you can work it up without beads. It'll be a little less sparkly/decorative, but still pretty. I haven't tried this with a color-changing yarn yet, but I think it would look rather nice and work well without beads. The color-changing yarn would have to change color pretty rapidly, though, to be noticeable over such a small amount of thread.

Beaded Twist Technique

Here are some tips for adding the beads so that your bracelet will look like the pictures I posted.

When incorporating the beads, slide two right up to your hook before making the next triple crochet (Tr). Next, wrap two strands around your hook, insert into the indicated stitch, then draw up a loop. Push the first bead all the way down and in front of your hook. Capture the bead in this position as you draw up a loop through the next two loops on your hook. Repeat the same technique with the second bead. To finish the triple crochet, draw up a loop through the last two loops on your hook as normal.

Beading can be tricky to get the hang of at first. If you don't push the beads all of the way down, and in front of the needle, they may not line up along the bottom edge of the bracelet, as in the pictures.


Beaded Twist Pattern Instructions

Slide 18 beads onto your yarn. Ch 46. (or different multiple of 5+1 depending on the desired length). Leave enough of a "tail" that you can use it to sew the bracelet together at the end.

Row 1: turn, Sc in 2nd Ch from hook, Sc in each Sc to the end of the round.

Row 2: turn, Sl St in first 4 stitches, Ch 3, Tr in next Sc, slide 2 beads down, Tr in Sc behind initial Ch 3 while incorporating beads (see Beaded Twist Technique) (first beaded-twist cluster made) *Ch 2, skip 3 stitches after beaded-twist cluster just made, Tr into next 2 Sc, Tr in Sc behind second to last Tr while incorporating beads (see Beaded Twist Technique)* Repeat from * to * through the end of the round.

Row 3: turn, Ch 1, Sc in same stitch, Sc in next 2 Tr, *Sc in next Ch-2 space, Sc in next 3 Tr*, Repeat from * to * until you run out of stitches. Do not fasten off.

Finishing

Sl St into side of last Sc, Ch 3, Sc into 2nd Ch from hook, Sc into 3rd Ch from hook. Sl St into the last Sc from Row 3. Fasten off leaving a long enough tail for sewing. Use the tails to sew the Sc ends of the bracelet together only, leaving the mid portion of the beaded twist unsewn.

Weaving in March's Ends

Back in Maryland, where I grew up, we had a saying that March "came in like a lion, and went out like a lamb." After living in Minnesota for several years, I would characterize this March as mostly lambish, at least in terms of weather.

I went out of town twice this March, once back to Maryland, another time out to Seattle, WA. In between I caught the plague and am finally getting my lungs, sleep schedule and classwork back in order from all of the chaos. Things are settling down just in time for March to be over, so now my life feels more lambish as well.

There hasn't been much time for crocheting, but I've had a couple of things floating around. Here I am crocheting away at a friend's place. I decided that the nice weather demanded a colorful yarn bomb, so dug out my scrap stash to see what could be done. I finished the project, but still can't decide where to "bomb," so I'll leave the rest of the project for another post!

BTW, if any of you bombers have tips for success, please let me know. I keep looking at the undersides of bridges, fences and bus stops, wondering how, erm, legal it would be to put something up, as well as how likely yarn would be to stay put any amount of time afterward.

Gorgeous Day in Minneapolis

After getting slammed with a "study" headache (from leaning over a textbook for hours) I decided that a walk and fresh air might help. I'm so glad I went out because it's absolutely beautiful today in Minneapolis. I visited Lake of the Isles.

Here's a shot of the snowy lake and the beautiful blue sky.


I noticed people wandering across the lake, and being originally from a place where lakes don't freeze enough to walk on, I had to question how safe it was. We've had a warmer winter, and it was 42 today, which is unseasonably warm.



I ran into a skater who commented that after growing up near a lake you just "kind of know" when it's not safe. So I followed her out onto the ice at which point she commented that the ice was "softer" today and I was probably right to wonder about safety. So I quickly shuffled across just to say I'd done it, while she skated on.

After wandering around the lake for awhile my headache dissipated and I felt better enough to take some photos. Here is the pic of my finished "A Little Zig, A Little Zag."



I've already worn these a few times, and they are pretty comfy. For clearer pictures of the zig zag motif on the ankles please check out my earlier post.

I took some shots of the "snowdrop" cowl I finished a ways back. Someone linked to my description of how to finish a tricky part of the pattern, yes! I also photographed a couple of hats that have recently been in the works. I'll have to include these in separate posts at a later date when I can elaborate more on how they were made.

What Most People Think I'm Doing ....

Happy Friday!

Row 7 Errata for Nested Shells Pattern

Thank you for the comments made about difficulties with Nested Shells hat pattern. I finally got an opportunity to look more closely at the pattern and hope that these next few images and edits will help you finish the hat.

I am using Stitch Nation "Full O Sheep" Thyme in these pictures. As I crocheted I remembered that heavy worsted weight yarns are better for the pattern. Using a light worsted weight yarn will give you a tiny hat. The hat will stretch a little with wear, but a heavy worsted weight yarn will give you a normal size.

These edits refer to Row 7, where the shell pattern begins. This seems to be the trouble spot, understandably so, as I found some errors while I was working.

Errata is in purple.

row 7: ch 3, *skip 3 sc, shell into next sc, ch 1, skip 3 sc, dc into next sc, 2 dc into next sc, dc into next sc, dc into next sc, ch 1* Repeat from * to * 3 times, skip 3 sc, shell into next sc, skip 3 sc, 1 dc into next 4 dc, join with a slip stitch into the second ch of the ch 3 made at beginning of round. Add a place marker to the ch 3 at the end of the round to keep track of the beginning of each round.

The following pictures give you a visual of how it looks as you work up row 7 properly.

First picture shows what it looks like before you start row 7 -- ie the circle is finished. You should count 55 stitches before proceeding.


The next picture shows the chain-3 at the start of the round. "carekelly" on Ravelry pointed out that "turning-chain" doesn't apply, as we are working in the round (not going back in the opposite direction.)
The following picture shows skipping three single crochet, then making the shell into the fourth stitch. (Shell= 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) If you look at the previous single crochet row you can count the three little loops before the shell.

The image below shows the next ch 1, skip 3 sc, 1 dc into next sc, 2 dc into next sc, 1 dc in next 2 sc. The blue numbers show the 5 dc, and how dc 2 and 3 go into 1 stitch/sc (increase). The little blue loop at the end is to show the ch 1 you make after the 5 dc.Now you've finished the first the first * to *, Repeat 3 times! not 4, as you won't have enough room.
The next two pictures show making the last shell, ch 1, skip 3 sc, 1 dc in next four dc, then making a slip stitch into the beginning 3 chain.

Row 7 done! I hope this clears things up.

Please comment here or on Ravelry with any more questions. I will do my best to change the pattern and/or make another tutorial. I am currently a student, a volunteer teaching assistant and yoga instructor. It may take a little while to find a chunk of time with good lighting for taking pictures or going over things carefully.

Thanks for looking.

Nested Shells crochet hat pattern

** Update: I made post on errata with photos of how to crochet row 7 -- please see the most recent post on my blog. Errata as of 2/10/2012 -- old row 12 deleted (extra row), row 7 altered, turning chain replaced with "beginning ch" (do not turn project -- work in the round).

I created this hat pattern last spring and recently posted it on my blog. Please enjoy it now and comment with any questions or difficulties. 

Nested Shells Hat

Difficulty: Intermediate

Stitches: ch, sc, dc, slip stitch, fpdc

Special Stitches: Shell: 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc

Hook: 5.5mm or 6mm

Use a worsted weight yarn, on the heavier side. (Light worsted will give you a tiny hat). I used Paton’s classic wool (1 skein 210yd/ 192m)

Pattern Instructions:

Row 1: ch 3, join into a circle by making a slip stitch into the first ch.

Row 2: ch 2, 11 dc into ring, join in top of 1^st dc (not the top of ch 2) (10 stitches)

Row 3: ch 2, dc in same stitch as ch 2, 2 dc in each stitch around, join with slip stitch in top of first dc of the round (21 stitches)

Row 4: ch 2, dc in same stitch, 2 dc in each stitch, join with a slip stitch in 1^st dc of round (42 stitches)

Row 5: ch 1, sc in back loop of same stitch as ch 1, *sc in the back loop of next two dc, 2 sc in the back loop of the next dc* repeat from * to * through the rest of the round (55 stitches)

Row 6: ch 1, sc in the back loop of the same stitch as ch 1, sc in the back loop in each stitch around. Join with slip stitch in top of first sc. (55 st)

Row 7: ch 3, *skip 3 sc, shell into next sc, ch 1, skip 3 sc, dc into next sc, 2 dc into next sc, dc into next sc, ch 1* Repeat from * to * 3 times, skip 3 sc, shell into next sc, skip 3 sc, 1 dc into next 4 dc, join with a slip stitch into the second ch of the 3 ch made at the beginning of each round. See separate post for row 7

row 8: *ch 1, shell into ch space of first shell from last round, ch 1, fpdc around next dc, dc in next dc, 3 dc in next dc, dc in next dc, fpdc around last dc* Repeat from * to * around, ending with a fpdc on last dc of last round. Do not join, but continue to the next round. Work rows 9 through 19 without joining.

row 9: *ch 1, shell into ch space of first shell from last round, ch 1, front post double crochet around next fpdc, dc in next 2 dc, 3 dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, front post double crochet around next dc* Repeat from * to * around, ending with a fpdc on last fpdc of last round.

row 10: *ch 1, shell into ch space of first shell from last round, ch 1, front post double crochet around next fpdc, dc in next 3 dc, 3 dc in next dc, dc in next 3 dc, front post double crochet around next fpdc* Repeat from * to * around, ending with a fpdc on last dc of last round.

row 11: *ch 1, shell into ch space of first shell from last round, ch 1, front post double crochet around next fpdc, dc in next 4 dc, 3 dc in next dc, dc in next 4 dc, front post double crochet around next fpdc* Repeat from * to * around, ending with a fpdc on last dc of last round.

rows 12 – 16: (five straight rounds): *ch 1, shell into ch space of first shell from last round, ch 1, front post double crochet around next dc, dc in next 11 dc, front post double crochet around next dc* Repeat from * to * around, ending with a fpdc on last dc of last round.

Row 17: (begin decrease): *ch1, shell into ch space of next shell, ch1, fpdc around fpdc, dc in next 4 dc, dc decrease over the next 3 stitches, dc in next 4 dc, fpdc around next fpdc.* Repeat from * to * through the end of the round.

Row 18: *Shell into ch space of next shell (do not ch 1), fpdc around next fpdc, dc in next dc, dc decrease over 2 stitches, dc in next 3 dc, dc decrease over next 2 stitches, dc in next dc, fpdc around next fpdc.* Repeat from * to * through the end of the round.

Row 19: ch1, 1 sc in same stitch, *skip first dc of shell, sc in second dc of shell, skip next dc of shell, 2 sc in ch space of shell, skip next dc of shell, sc in next dc of shell, skip next dc of shell, sc in next fpdc. Sc in every dc until next fpdc, sc in next fpdc.* Repeat from * to * through the end of the round. Join with a slip stitch in ch1 from the beginning of the round.

Row 20: ch 1, sc in the back loops of each sc of the round. Join with a slip stitch in the ch1 of the beginning of the round.

Row 21: ch 2, 1 dc in the back loops of each sc of the previous round. Join with a slip stitch in the first dc of the round.

Row 22: ch1, 1 sc in the back loops of each sc of the previous round. Join with a slip stitch in the beginning ch1.

Size Medium/Large. Add one increase row, then make one less even (no increase or decrease) row. Decrease the same amount/method you would as in the small, but space the decreases so they come out evenly (more specific instructions on this to come).